For the past few weeks, I've had the pleasure of testing out a few products by Estonian luxury skincare brand D’DIFFERENCE. Created by a doctor, this brand is made for bringing out your real beauty.
Read MoreFrom ‘Bottle to Boot’: How Timberland’s New Spring Collection is Helping to Reduce Plastic Waste
Thread CEO Ian Rosenberger.
Words: Kyra Hanson
Imagine unfolding your towel, spreading your body out in the searing sun, listening to the sea waves lapping against the shoreline, sinking your toes into the silky sand – only to find the grains beneath your feet aren’t silky or the colour of sand, but sharp, angular, brightly coloured bits of plastic. These days, a barefoot walk along a beach such as Newquay’s Tregantle Cove is more like hot-footing it through a football pitch-sized box of Lego. Plastic beaches are a common sight around the world, due to the eight million (at least!) tonnes of plastic, which end up in our oceans every year. But in Haiti and Honduras, Thread International is diverting this waste from the waterways, by turning it into wearable fabric. This spring, the sustainable fabric manufacturer has collaborated with outdoors fashion brand Timberland to launch ThreadX, a menswear collection made from recycled plastic.
Savant caught up with Ian Rosenberger, founder and CEO of Thread and Margaret Morey-Reuner, Director of strategic partnerships, business development and values marketing with Timberland to trace the origins of the ThreadX collection.
Photography: Taylor Free Solo
How did the idea for Thread come about?
IR: I went to Haiti in 2010. My original mission was to document the aftermath of the devastating earthquake. While looking through the 3,000+ photos I took, I noticed they all had two elements in common: piles of trash and poverty in abundance. I remember writing in my journal: “if Haiti could turn trash into money = good.” Once home, I quite literally Googled: “What can you make out of trash?”. I discovered you can make fabric out of plastic waste, and the idea for Thread was born.
Bales at ECSSA.
Collector picking up a bottle of the streets of Les Cayes.
Can you describe your first impressions of Haiti?
IR: I fell in love with Haiti and its people. After talking to Haitians and asking them what they really needed, I found the answer to be what we all fundamentally want – a roof over our heads and a way to give our kids a better life than we had. I was convinced an effective solution would require not just charity, but a money-making enterprise, creating real jobs for the Haitian people, returning the dignity, autonomy and purpose, which the earthquake had stripped away.
Plastic flakes.
Can you talk us through the manufacturing process of the new Timberland collection?
IR: The process of going from ‘bottle to boot’ begins in Haiti, where more than 1,300 locals collect the plastic bottles that are ultimately developed into Thread fabric. The collectors sell these bottles to 50 Haitian-owned and operated collection centres. The centre owners and individual collectors transport and sell the sorted plastic to Haiti Recycling and Environmental Cleaning Solutions S.A. in Port-au-Prince. At Haiti Recycling, the production line washes and shreds the bottles into a raw material called ‘flake’, which is then sent to US-based factories that melt and shape the flake into a fibre, which is then woven into fabric.
"Once home, I quite literally Googled: “What can you make out of trash?”"
Bales of plastic.
Timberland purchases the high-quality fabric from us and turns it into durable bags and boots – culminating in the Timberland X Thread collection. Every yard of Thread’s Ground to Good™ fabric supports a network of dignified jobs in the developing world, creating income opportunities, and cleaning up Haiti’s neighbourhoods. It’s one thing to recycle but it’s another to have a lasting impact on people’s lives while you’re creating beautiful products.
Andre Benoit Dulisson and Marie Josette Alexis.
Andre Benoit Dulisson.
Kids play soccer at dusk.
Can you describe the thinking behind the design and look of the collection and who would wear it?
MM: The Timberland X Thread collection utilizes lived-in fabrics for a comfortable look that our consumers enjoy. The city blazer, for example, speaks to a few current trends. Its natural earth tones and deconstructed silhouette are inspired by military uniforms and time-honoured suiting. Our boots are reimagined for year-round appeal and to suit today’s city lifestyle. In this collection the rugged canvas textures, washed leather touches and relaxed tailoring convey the perfect combination of tough-yet-lightweight durability that is unmistakably Timberland.
Our brand – from classics to newer collections – has gained popularity among a diverse cross-section of men and women. The commonality is that they all appreciate our heritage, style and versatility. Most often, that person is someone who is connected to the outdoors, but in a more casual, everyday way. They care about the outdoors, but they also care about style. In other words, this person is a city dweller who goes for a casual afternoon hike or someone who leaves their house in the morning not knowing if they’re going to spend their afternoon at the park or at the movies. Timberland allows consumers to look and feel their best, from head-to-toe, for any adventure ahead.
Timberland x Thread.
It has been highlighted how plastic fibres (recycled or not) still ultimately end up in our oceans as they break away from our garments when put through a washing machine. What is Thread doing to solve this issue?
IR: We are keenly aware of the issue of microfibers being released back into our oceans and believe more research and inter-organisational collaboration is needed to develop long-term global solutions. Thread chooses to partner with companies, like Timberland, that are committed to finding sustainable solutions to issues like this.
Uncollected plastic - particularly in coastal areas - is most likely to be washed out to sea. That’s an estimated eight million tons of plastic entering the ocean every year. In Haiti and Honduras, the lack of proper trash disposal and an abundance of waste are the root of many health and environmental problems. In Haiti, most plastics that are collected are eventually burned, releasing harmful toxins into the atmosphere. Thread continues to work to clean the streets of Haiti and Honduras by collecting and recycling trash. And, more importantly, we are creating dignified jobs for the people who live there, enabling them to improve their quality of life and provide for their families.
"I was convinced an effective solution would require not just charity, but a money-making enterprise, creating real jobs for the Haitian people, returning the dignity, autonomy and purpose, which the earthquake had stripped away."
Delivery truck with super sacks of plastic.
Both Will.I.AM’s ‘Ekocycle’ collection at Harrods and Pharrell Williams ‘Raw for the Oceans’ campaign with Adidas are steps in the right direction, but one barrier to the democratisation of sustainable fashion practices always seems to be price. Buying sustainably will never beat Primark prices so can we ever envisage a time when sustainable, transparent fashion is the norm?
MM: I dream of the day when that becomes the case! But there certainly are some challenges the industry as a whole will need to address, including scalability to help bring pricing down, before it can become a reality. It’s exciting to see so many different companies, brands and organisations coming up with innovative solutions to tackle both environmental and social issues. In fact, since 2009, Timberland has given more than 270 million plastic bottles new life in its footwear. And it’s exciting to see the consumer demanding more transparency and accountability in the products they are buying.
Positive role models, such as the pop singers above are one way of encouraging people, and men in particular, into buying sustainably. When did you personally start thinking about where your clothes came from?
IR: Haha. If you saw my own wardrobe you'd laugh. Since I was a kid, I've taken the ‘less is more’ approach. I grew up on a farm in Pennsylvania, so clothes were worn for pure function. As an adult, that translates into the things I like: classic lines and patterns. I don't chase trends, but originally this wasn't because I was trying to be responsible, it was because I'd only own maybe six shirts at a time (which is definitely still the case). I really love thinking about how this idea might translate into the next apparel economy. What if we could have access to all the clothes we needed, and all we needed was six shirts?
What has been the most challenging aspect of Thread’s journey so far?
IR: The biggest challenge for Thread right now is making sure that our end-product is cost competitive with the fabrics or yarns that these brands are already using.
"What if we could have access to all the clothes we needed, and all we needed was six shirts?"
How do you envision the future of sustainable fashion and Thread’s place within it?
IR: Thread aims to be the catalyst for positive change in the fashion industry, improving the economic, social and environmental impacts of making clothes to end poverty. Consumers don’t identify with a bottle, but they do empathise with the people who make the clothes they wear.
When Thread succeeds, it changes the way the apparel industry buys the materials it needs to make clothes. By focusing on goods rather than convenience, brands understand that there’s intrinsic value to the product they are making and the consumer is buying. This is the future of fashion. Thread’s goal is to work with 25 of the largest apparel and footwear brands in the world within the next two years. Timberland has been an excellent inaugural brand partner; stay tuned for future collaborations!
Shop the collection here.
#WeAreTesting: Caracalla Cosmetici Roma
This incredibly unique bio-organic cosmetics brand of Italian origin, Caracalla Cosmetici, has brought an interesting and varied paraben-free range to the market – you probably don’t want to miss out on their Nourishing and Restoring facial oil, blended with 100% active ingredients and addressed to treat sensitive skin, to revive and re-energise your skin for blossoming spring. I often feel the need for an extra vitamin inject to boost up my complexion before the golden days of summer season, when skin, as the most important visible organ, needs to be *delicately* prepped for actively taking in all the mood-lifting Vitamin D, somewhere on the sunny coast of French Riviera, all the bravura. The range of luxury facial and body care offered by Caracalla Cosmetici is minimal and concise, yet well curated and thought-through, listing all the absolute essentials you need for daily skincare, from De-Pigmenting and BB creams to Caviar and Snail Drool eye cream, offering a luxurious dose of comfort and care between your regular deep-cleanse peels and fab seasonal facials.
The comfortably light texture of the Nourishing and Restoring Visage Oil mutes your skin’s uneven surfaces and gets rid of any allergic patches and blemishes that may intermittently evade your skin, leaving it nourished, smooth and photo-ready – it worked wonders and absorbed instantly, let alone the droplet cap makes it even easier to apply, without leaving the complexion oily, so I could carry on with my daily make-up routine almost instantly. I also noticed an immediate visible difference in the skin’s smoothness. The nourishing oil, injected with a high dose of vitamins E and F, and in addition to the basics, like Argan and Coconut Oils, the sweet miraculous ingredient of Rosa Mosqueta oil, surprising notes of Pumpkin, Rosemary and Lavander have been featured in the blend of active, bio-organic oils, is definitely a darling pre-bedtime pamperer, and proudly manifests itself an everyday luxury that doesn’t exactly cost a fortune.
6 Ethical Fashion Bloggers To Follow This Spring
Words: Alexandra Mozgovaya
“There is enough on earth for everybody’s need, but not for everyone’s greed.” (Gandhi)
Today’s consumer society instills into us that being considered interesting and enviable in the eyes of others can only be achieved if we buy new products: clothes, gadgets, accessories, handbags, you name it. On repeat and on repeat. Many more pairs of fancy shoes and dresses for various ensembles to promote on social media than we actually need, although we always desire plenty. But these six green fashion names prove that fashion and cautious attitude towards the world can be combined, which as a result leaves space for more meaningful activities, lifestyle inspiration and positive energy. Focusing our attention on getting rid of the importance of material things removes dependency from clothes and teaches us to appreciate something bigger than simply a wardrobe full of fancy garments.
These six bloggers, pioneering a movement that celebrates a more meaningful approach to fashion and living, are a true inspiration and role models to us, gearing forward precious change in rethinking consumerism.
1. Agnes Muljadi (artsyagnes.com)
Agnes Muljadi, Artsyagnes.com, 2017.
Agnes is a ballerina, who became vegan 2 years ago and discovered the world of sustainability for herself, including what to wear and how to decorate her home. Her blog is an up-to-date resource about slow living and different collaborations with a variety of eco-brands. It’s an online journal of a daily lifestyle consisting of ballet, veganism and love for sustainability.
Agnes Muljadi, Artsyagnes.com, 2017.
Agnes says:
“I love doing Ethical OOTDs (Outfit Of The Day) where I put together a head to toe look featuring all vegan, all sustainable, all cruelty-free and all fairtrade brands. I love reading messages from people who are interested in building a more sustainable closet, but they just don't know how to start. It's important for us to reach out to people, give them ideas and show them that you can still look fashionable without harming animals or the environment.”
Agnes’s advice to our readers:
"I think a good place to start is for all of us to continue to ask what is it we're voting for every time we spend money on food, fashion, furniture, or anything really. For me, I've always wanted to support brands and businesses that are making an effort to protect the people, animals and the longevity of our planet."
2. Nataly Elbaz Bjorklund (literallynataly.com)
Nataly Elbaz Bjorklund, Literallynataly.com, 2017.
Nataly is a blogger who creates awareness on sustainablity issues, introducing slow fashion and eco-lifestyle brands. She was born in Tel Aviv, raised in Bangkok, then moved to London, and now lives in Oxford. She started her sustainable lifestyle blog last spring, although it had been at the back of her mind from when she was writing her MA thesis about sustainability in the fashion industry a few years back. The moment of change came after the realization that Nataly had developed a habit of shopping as often as every week, spending money on things that she really didn't need and never used.
On the blog, Nataly focuses on raising awareness about sustainability issues and introducing slow fashion brands. She also works together with ethical brands to promote and introduce a conscious lifestyle to those who might not normally consider issues of social justice and sustainability. “I want to show people that you don’t need to compromise on a beautiful product by shopping sustainably” – Nataly says.
Nataly Elbaz Bjorklund, Literallynataly.com, 2017.
Nataly’s advice to our readers:
"Cherish the things that you already own. I found that once I began to live a more conscious lifestyle, I noticed so many things in my home which I had previously bought and remained brand new, unopened, and with tags still on. Try to make do with those things before you go out to purchase new ones. To me the beginning to a more sustainable life was that mental switch."
3. Joan La (www.acupofjoan.com)
Joan La, A Cup Of Joan, 2017.
The blog with the catchy name A Cup of Joan focuses on showcasing vegan fashion that is both ethical and sustainable. It also features inspiring features on personal experiences about travel and other hot eco topics: veganism, animal rights and environmental issues all covered.
Joan has started sustainable lifestyle from simple practices of change: from using less plastic to limiting water use and preventing waste. She started paying more attention to a conscious lifestyle a year and half ago, and is gearing forward at a fast pace of raising awareness among others. She learned how detrimental and harmful the effect of fashion industry is to our environment, so changing some simple habits and beliefs, like attitude to shopping as a top priority, brought along more awareness about the importance of a waste-free, sustainable life.
Joan La, A Cup Of Joan, 2017.
Joan says:
"I love collaborating with brands that promote sustainability and ethics, and I hope to continue on doing so on a much larger scale. I haven't put out major projects as of late, however there are a few in the works where I will dive more deeply into promoting an eco-lifestyle, so stay tuned!"
Joan’s advice to our readers:
"The best way to begin living more consciously every day is to start with the small stuff. Even little things day to day can have a large impact over time. Bring reusable bags to the grocery store, carry around refillable bottles, thrift more, and consume less or little to no meat."
4. Valeria Hinojosa (www.waterthruskin.com)
Valeria Hinojosa, WaterThruSkin.com, 2017.
Valeria has created her inspirational blog WaterThruSkin that discovers and explores a world of mindfulness, sustainability, nature-loving, adventures, and kindness. She believes that perfoming the right everyday routines can transform into great changes.
She talks about conscious shopping and shows eco-friendly travel opportunities, adventures with animals in the wild, a plant-based diet, sustainable fashion, and yoga.
Valeria Hinojosa, WaterThruSkin.com, 2017.
Valeria found herself empty and devastating, trying to reach salary, “status”, and the VIP perks, and one day she decided to completely change succes-oriented lifestyle. Her progress as a certified yoga teacher and vegan chef, travelling and doing what she love – the little secrets of her happiness.
Valeria says:
"I fully understand that life is all about finding the right balance, making time for yourself and the things you love, and about making conscious decisions that have a positive impact on someone other than yourself. Life should be inspiring, and being an inspiration is magic!"
Valeria Hinojosa, WaterThruSkin.com, 2017.
5. Lee Vosburgh (http://www.stylebee.ca/)
Lee Vosburgh, StyleBee.ca, 2017.
Lee Vosburgh, StyleBee.ca, 2017.
Style Bee is all about fashion: stylish decisions, simplifying and putting together classy outfits. Lee is a designer who works in Ontario, so when reading her blog you can believe in her tips and the life and wardrobe hacks she shows.
She explores personal style putting accent on timeless clothes, shares independent brands and inspires to make conscious, thought-through choices when we go shopping.
Lee says:
"I think unique style is a combination of keeping things simple, comfortable and classic. I try to focus my budget on pieces for both my closet and home that I will be able to enjoy for years to come with smatterings of fun, unique items that set a look apart."
6. Jessica English Lass (www.englishlassinla.com)
Jessica English Lass, Englislassinla.com, 2017.
Jessica moved to the U.S. not so long ago and she combines her sustainable lifestyle attitude with discovering a new culture and a new country. So, on English Lass in LA you can find not only fashion decisions, but also an exciting life experience tale.
Jessica English Lass, Englislassinla.com, 2017.
As fashion lover Jessica one day decided to make more conscious steps starting to purchase differently: preferring slow garments to fast, mass-produced items. That was the start of her slow fashion lifestyle. She also writes about brands and different interesting products that promote a timeless concept.
Jessica says:
While exploring my new home I try to lead a sustainable lifestyle. Having worked in fashion for eight years I can’t deny my love for clothing.However, over the last few years, I’ve started to try to and only purchase ethically made garments and to support the buy local movement.
Being a sustainable role model is not so hard! Let's follow and make our lives better.
Aparaaditehas, Tartu: Slow Store Opens Its Doors
Words: Johanna Raudsepp
We are glad to announce that our friends and partners from Slow.ee have now opened their very first slow fashion store in Tartu, Estonia! The brand new Slow Store is located at Aparaaditehas (Apparatus Factory), which has long been a fantastic new lifestyle hub connecting sustainable design, creativity and food, enjoyed by the young and the old alike.
The open conceptual space with high windows truly emphasizes taking it slow - taking that moment to breathe and being grateful for the simple things in life. Slow features a variety of conscious fashion brands and beauty products, but when it comes to product choices, sky is the limit! They also showcase sustainable lifestyle products and tasty treats. I got to try vegan chocolate from their shop and it was a-ma-zing.
Where is Slow heading now? Store owner and sustainability activist, Helen Puistaja, tells us the aim now is to go with the flow. “We have worked extremely hard to achieve this dream of having our own Slow store. Now that it’s here, we just want to take it all in and enjoy the moment.”
“I’m actually curious to know what items and brands our clients love most,” says Helen. She is looking forward to other curious minds coming in and discovering the realm of slow life. And let me tell you - it is definitely worth checking out! One’s own eye is the king.
Portland General Store: Artisanal Toiletries for Men
Does shaving make your skin itch? Do chemicals in aftershave lotions cause irritation and red skin? Say no more! From the rugged depths of nature to vintage bottles, Portland General Store creates artisanal vegan and organic cosmetics for men. Created in small batches, this line of skincare for men is constantly innovating and brewing up new concoctions. Lisa Brodar, the mastermind behind Portland General Store’s natural skincare recipes, talks men’s skincare and its more organic future.
Words: Johanna Raudsepp
Various Portland General Store Products.
What inspired the launch of Portland General Store? Where does the name derive from?
The idea was inspired back in the mid 2000’s, it was the heart of the maker movement in urban cities like New York, Los Angeles, and Portland, Oregon. I was living in Brooklyn and took up an interest in knitting, getting my supplies from a knitting supply shop called “Brooklyn General Store”. Etsy was a new place where makers and artisans could sell their goods. I decided to start a shop that would sell artisans goods in Portland, Maine, where my partner and I had decided to relocate. When I came across a vintage perfumery book and old apothecary bottles, I started mixing up concoctions — creams, perfumes, oils — and so, the brand was born.
In natural cosmetics, ingredients are everything. What are your favourite components to work with and why?
Wow, so many! I’ll narrow it down to my current favorites, since I’m always experimenting in the lab. Right now I’m a little obsessed with oils, especially camellia flower oil, which I use in a face oil. It is just so beautiful, and non-greasy, perfect for all skin types, male and female. The inspiration to use camellia flower oil in our face oil came its use through the ages in Japan. I mean, Japanese women have flawless skin, there must be a secret! One secret is that they use camellia flower oil to cleanse and moisturize.
Portland General Store Old-Fashioned Aftershave Balm.
Women's cosmetics have already taken a turn to natural. Are men's products following suit? Why do you think such a movement is happening?
Absolutely, or at least I like to think so! Being at the forefront of this movement back in 2009, I would say it was a bit of a struggle to convince some men who were used to going to the neighborhood one-stop-shop bar of soap. Using names like ‘Whiskey’ and ‘Tobacco’ I think sort of tricked them into buying a natural product!
Then, when they started to see results, like less oily or dry skin, less razor burn and irritation, less flaky scalp, they came back, they reviewed the products, we got featured, and there was sort of a domino effect. Matched with the growing trend in men’s grooming (not necessarily all-natural), more men have sought us out, but still, I think there are large pockets of men, domestic and worldwide, who haven’t yet caught on.
"Using names like ‘Whiskey’ and ‘Tobacco’ I think sort of tricked them into buying a natural product!"
In what way does Portland General Store embody slow beauty principles?
We definitely don’t rush the process. Every step is slow — from formulation, to making the product, to even how we fulfill and pack. I think a lot of it is like cooking — we pour our hearts into each product, and even each package. I try to imagine myself on the receiver’s end, opening this box, filled with goodies, a card, dried flowers, a sample. It is very personal. We are not a large corporation and fulfillment is done in-house.
What does Portland General Store dream about at night?
Oh boy, many wonderful things! Big dreams include owning a farm with a little shop that sells the best in natural and organic skincare, and other goods related to living clean and well. But for now, we are in the midst of a package redesign, moving back to a true ‘General Store’ look and feel. We’re working with a hand letterer to design a couple of products this spring, and we’re very excited about that!
"I think a lot of it is like cooking — we pour our hearts into each product, and even each package."
SkinYoga: 100% Natural Empowering Beauty from India
Drawing from ancient knowledge of purifying the body, mind, and soul, there’s a new 100% natural way of adapting to ancient rituals. Luxury skincare made user-friendly - and all you need to do is just add water! Indian award-winning skincare brand SkinYoga focuses on empowering women by educating them about the worth of natural beauty and traditions. Founded by a sister-trio, this beauty brand stems from a unifying love of nature and heritage. Radhika Choudhary, one of the co-founders of SkinYoga, spoke to us about their skincare range and its sustainable future.
Words: Johanna Raudsepp
SkinYoga Post-Workout Neem Purifier.
What inspired you to create SkinYoga?
We grew up in a farm in India, where we used to grow our own vegetables, nurtured cows for dairy, and lived a very organic lifestyle. Then we moved to different parts of the world to study. We always got complimented for our skin and hair and at that made us realize it was the very simple and pure regime we had been following since our childhood. After seeing misleading claims from beauty brands that you only need 3% natural ingredients to call yourself a natural skincare brand, we were determined to develop and formulate a 100% natural and clean luxury skincare line that showed results in just one use. The idea was to create a product for the modern working women, so they could enjoy the best of ancient science and modern technology, yet without having to spend hours on different steps.
How does SkinYoga follow principles of sustainable beauty?
We are 100% natural skincare brand and all our ingredients are plant-derived, pure, and unprocessed. Few brands in the world can say they are 100% natural.
There are many dimensions to being sustainable. We have kept all our products in a powdered state to keep them highly active and potent. When you’re ready to use it, you only need to add water to activate it. The stabilizing method helps us keep the ingredients highly active without any preservatives. We focus on the smallest details, from packaging to internal operations, making sure they follow an eco-friendly process. Our team is very actively involved in the community and participates in socially responsible programs. We frequently conduct educational seminars and exhibitions highlighting the importance of sustainable beauty.
"We have concluded that a beauty regime doesn’t necessarily have to be complicated and involve 20 different beauty steps."
SkinYoga Corporate Gift Set.
Who is your beauty inspiration?
Hundreds and thousands of strong independent working women across the globe, who have and are living balanced and healthy life with lots of style, not because they have to, but because they choose to do so. They are incredibly inspiring, and thanks to our profession, we are blessed to be working with many of such women today, our mother being one of them. We would also like to add that 100% of our workforce are women today.
What is your go-to beauty routine like?
It’s quite simple: cleansing, moisturizing and good sun block in addition to at least 6 hours sleep and loads and loads of water. We at SkinYoga are always looking to further simplify beauty routines. We have concluded that a beauty regime doesn’t necessarily have to be complicated and involve 20 different beauty steps.
"Our philosophy is “If you can’t eat it, don’t put it on your body”."
SkinYoga Oats and Roses Face Wash.
What inspires you when creating new SkinYoga products?
One miracle bottle. That’s our brief behind every product. If you look at our current range we have an ideal capsule skincare range, adaptable to every age and all climate conditions. Coming back to the idea that you don’t need 10 products to take care of your skin.
Quality has become a signature to our brand. Our team works extremely hard to create products,which are clean and effective. Our philosophy is “If you can’t eat it, don’t put it on your body”. 60% of what you put on your body is directly absorbed into your blood stream. Hence, it’s important to stay away from chemicals.
How do you see the future of natural, sustainable beauty? Where is it directed?
The future of the beauty industry is heading towards natural and sustainable brands. With the growing consumers’ awareness and demand, the natural skincare category is one of the fastest growing in skincare globally. But there is a huge gap in the market still and more brands are coming to that realization.
Global demand for natural skincare products is expected to reach $13.2 billion by 2018. Thus, we will see more mainstream brands come up with natural skincare ranges in the future.
SkinYoga Green Tea Face Mask.
What are your hopes and dreams for 2017?
Our dream and mission is to get every vanity bag chemical free. We love to empower women. We want every woman to feel confident and strong in their own skin without having to apply any makeup.
2017 is an important year for SkinYoga - we are coming out with 3 new products, including our first hair care product.
Want to shop or find out more? http://www.skinyoga.in/
UK readers can buy the products here: https://www.skinyoga.co.uk/
Skinyoga Sandalwood Saffron Face Mask.
Radically Responsible Ethical Elegance from Finland: ILUUT
In Finland, radical transparency is making waves in the clothing industry. With their seasonless style and Nordic grace, as a new brand in the market, iluut aspires to make ethical design more accessible to all customers. Who would deny introducing a pinch of minimal elegance into their wardrobe? iluut is comprised of a female trio, with their feminine enigma focused on building awareness of affordable slow fashion. Having just launched their web shop in early 2017, we wanted to know more about their journey towards the brave way of entering ethical fashion industry.
iluut, ss17.
Describe iluut's debut collection in 3 words.
Timeless, traceable and affordable.
What are the attitudes circulating about sustainable fashion in Finland?
The Finns are paying more and more attention to making sustainable purchases, especially people living in major cities today show interest in buying clothes from smaller sustainable brands. However, iluut aims to expand further in Europe, and it’s great witnessing sustainable supply increase; there is something for everyone nowadays. We also think we have a great duty of educating people and building awareness of the difference between fast and sustainable fashion. We can’t wait for the day when sustainable brands really make a breakthrough and get a bigger market share. We are working hard for that.
What are the main complications you've faced when setting up iluut?
At the very beginning, it was very surprising how difficult it was to find high quality, sustainable woven fabrics that have been made in Europe. We wanted to find fabrics that are fully traceable; meaning they come to us directly from the farm. We truly appreciate full transparency, because we believe it could decrease fashion’s biggest ethical and environmental problems, such as use of child labour, unsecured working conditions, dangerous chemicals and industrial pollution. In summer 2016, we made a European tour and visited a family-owned Italian fabric manufacturer, Albini. We are proud to say that our customers have so far been very happy with the quality of iluut clothes. Currently we are looking for new sustainable fabric options for the dresses we are developing.
"Our aim is to be an open and collaborative brand that brings joy and value to its end customers."
iluut, ss17.
What are the benefits of a minimal capsule wardrobe?
Minimal style looks fresh from year to year, and it’s very easy to combine. That means you don’t need so many garments, because with less pieces you can create many different kinds of looks that last throughout the years. It cannot be a conscious choice to produce something that people won’t wear anymore in a couple of seasons, and that will turn into more waste.
Who and what were the main influencers and influences iluut took note of since its inception?
Our whole team of three ambitious women loves fashion, but thinks that making beautiful things shouldn’t harm people. Last summer, we were fortunate to meet a pioneer designer in sustainable fashion, Marina Spadafora. She has been designing for high-end Italian brands, such as Prada and Miu Miu, before deciding to become a sustainable fashion advocate and a part of the Advisory Committee of the Fashion Revolution global movement; always including a strong social and environmental focus on her work. We take inspiration from people like Marina; people who have started doing things differently to really make a change.
How does iluut differ from many other Scandinavian brands trying to conquer the ethical fashion market?
There are only very few fashion brands that open the whole process of each garment: where the clothes were made and who actually made them. This is something iluut focuses strongly on, and we encourage others to do the same. We have also recently started designing two Spring/Summer dresses together with our Instagram and Facebook followers. We believe people will appreciate the clothes even more, if they can contribute to the process. Our aim is to be an open and collaborative brand that brings joy and value to its end customers.
iluut, ss17.
Choosing an angle to improve social or economic conditions in Third World is widely cherished by brands to make a change in the fashion industry. What's your social mission?
At iluut, we want to work with companies that care about their workers and are willing to invest in them more than just on an average, distant level. For example, when we were looking for an atelier, we were convinced of our choice after finding an Estonian atelier with seven seamstresses, who are paid 40% more than the average workers in the industry. We started working on iluut aside of our daily jobs, and our margins are still low because our mission is to offer affordable sustainable clothes for everyone. How to make our mission happen? We need to rise the volumes and we just took the first steps towards that by opening our web shop, iluut.com. You are warmly welcome to have a look and make sustainable purchases.
"It cannot be a conscious choice to produce something that people won’t wear anymore in a couple of seasons, and that will turn into more waste."
iluut, ss17.
What's the best season to be seen in your garments?
Fashion world rotates on the basis of seasons. That’s something we’re thinking differently: surely we’ll have clothes for different times of the year, but we don’t offer seasonal collections arriving two times a year. On the flip side, fast fashion brings new clothes to the market every week, which means compromising the quality and generating a huge amount of waste - both because the garments are not durable and get thrown away, and also because of the unsold stock left in stores. To improve the cycle, our goal is to bring something new to the market only once in around a month’s time, without compromising quality or workers’ conditions. Also, making clothes with a slower approach and seeing what sells and producing according to demand, allows us to avoid producing waste.
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Axiology Beauty: Colorama of Vegan Lipsticks for Every Occasion
Have you ever wondered how cruelty-free are the contents of your make-up bag? I do like to believe that conscious lifestyle choices can extend to our beauty rituals - be it bathing or enhancing your radiance for a memorable night out. These natural, organic lipsticks by Axiology, with shades ranging from subtle natural nudes to queen-of-the-night black, make sure you stand out from the crowd on every occasion. Ericka Rodriguez, founder and formulator at Axiology Beauty, shared their love for beauty with us.
Words: Johanna Raudsepp
Theory by Axiology / Photo: Ed Dasso.
What inspired the launch of Axiology?
Axiology was inspired by our dedication to a cruelty-free lifestyle. I have been vegan for many years and during the time of Axiology's beginning, I was delving more into understanding animal testing and animal derived ingredients in our home and personal care products. After lots of research, I vowed to only purchase make-up products that were dedicated in their stance on being cruelty-free. Unfortunately, at the time, I felt a lot of brands fell short. I didn't like the feel of the lipstick and didn't think any of the brands were marketed for me. I wanted something vegan, high performing and cool. I thought it would be fun to try to make my own lipstick (if you can't tell, this has always been my favourite make-up product) and would formulate before and after work 5 days a week. Eventually, I found a recipe I loved and had to bring it to the market.
"My boyfriend and I lived along rice paddies and had a view of a volcano from our studio."
Ericka Rodriguez, founder of Axiology.
Axiology is aligned with the values of sustainability. What is your take on sustainable beauty? Where could it evolve in the near future?
Sustainable beauty is here to stay. Ingredients are key to keeping our bodies healthily sustained and I think consumers are demanding this more than ever.
What are Axiology’s characteristics?
Axiology is intentional in her actions, intelligent in her worldview, and compassionate above all.
What has been your most memorable experience on the journey of creating Axiology lipsticks?
The most memorable experience is journeying to Bali, Indonesia, to study ingredients and it is also the place that led me to the women who hand-recycle and hand make our boxes. Bali is wonderful and my boyfriend and I lived along rice paddies and had a view of a volcano from our studio. I was also able to work alongside many other entrepreneurs, which has been crucial to my success. They all really pushed me and gave me valuable advice that I still put into practice.
"Most crucial to me when we talk about a ‘slow’ lifestyle is just slowing down in general. I meditate every morning and that's what really aligns my day."
Noble by Axiology / Photo: Ed Dasso.
Black by Axiology / Photo: Ed Dasso.
How do you understand slow living and how do you apply its principles to your day-to-day life?
I'm all for the slow lifestyle. I know that in most cases the slow lifestyle is referring to avoiding mass production and eating organically, so I usually host clothing swaps instead of going shopping and frequent farmers markets. However, most crucial to me when we talk about a ‘slow’ lifestyle is just slowing down in general. I meditate every morning and that's what really aligns my day.
Who do you look up to as your beauty inspiration?
Beauty inspiration would be Beyonce. She's the queen.
If Axiology was a flower, which one would it be?
Axiology would be a cactus flower. We see ourselves in the desert under the open sky.
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NadiaZ: Premium Range Swiss Cosmetics Celebrating the Scarcity of Indigenous Plants
Bienvenue to the world of NadiaZ indigenous plant based cosmetics: Swiss scientist Nadia Zuodar’s eponymous label of premium range cosmetics NadiaZ celebrates the power of active compounds of rare indigenous plants. Inspired by her agronomist Italian father, Nadia Zuodar took a liking in precious oriental scents and developed her own more natural, active formulas that helped to alleviate her skin allergies, which she suffered from early childhood. Although the basis of Nadia's research was a personal ground, for a decade, the founder was dedicated to humanitarian missions in Africa and international development across the globe that also played a big part of forming the mythical and mystical range of cosmetics sourced from rare plants. NadiaZ in 2017 is a premium range brand, a true innovator in the industry introducing all-natural, velvety scents and antiallergic, non-irritable compounds in skincare to celebrate the scarcity of indigenous plants and fight against their extinction. We talked the benefits, use and ethics of natural cosmetics with the knowledgeable founder.
NadiaZ's Tucuma Cocoon Ultra-Soft Deo.
What informed the creation of your own ethical luxury cosmetics brand? What was your philosophy that created basis for your brand from the start?
As you could further read on my website, I was allergic to almost everything on the market and have been formulating products since childhood. Then I added the scientific and ethnological knowledge to be able to explore on plants, traditional medicinal use, neurobiology, physics and chemistry and almost 2 decades field work in various countries, at least one decade building my supply network of rare indigenous plants. So it was a necessity first, then people asked me to make it available to the public and here I am!
What are the key compounds that make your products so unique and sought-after?
I take special care featuring vegetable oils that have seen less interest so far, as compared to essential oils promoted by aromatherapy. Vegetable oils, such as oils pressed from nuts and seeds, like Baobab, Ucuuba and Ximenia, bear unique compounds, some of them yet to be fully studied, besides showing specific mechanical properties that are important for skin protection.
The list would go on forever, so here is a description on the plants I use and the very special concept here http://nadiaz.ch/ingredients-library/
What are the particular benefits of the natural hair therapy elixir (Copaiba Ritual Hair Serum) and deodorant (Tucuma Cocoon Ultra-Soft Deo) we are testing? What is the expected treatment and who could benefit from using these products?
The Copaiba Ritual Hair Serum is designed to create a long lasting protective and natural film on the hair, particularly due to the active Copaiba Resin and thus prevents hair from splitting, improves shine and resistance of the hair fibers. Most hair products contain silicons, which simply sit at the surface and get washed off. Besides, silicons result in micro-pollutants in the environment.
Tucuma Cocoon is the first deo that is totally safe to use, without aluminium salts or added aggressive chemicals. It is a new way to use deo, where one would carry it along and re-apply it, rather than expect 24h duration. Its formula was inspired by traditional rituals, such as henna application, as well as by my research on Amazonian plants.
All my products are for people who suffer from allergies, dry and sensitive skin and/or hair, or simply want healthy products. Unfortunately, there are very strong regulations in regards to cosmetics that prevent us to speak about their therapeutic and health benefits, or call it phytotherapy. Most of the plants I use have very special constituents unique to them. Besides, the manufacturing principles I apply and patient work (cold process, hand-made, concentrated products) ensure a superior quality.
“My hopes may be idealistic, but we just need to get more people shift from petrochemical formulas to natural ones and that would be a good minimum step.”
How is the holistic approach represented when it comes to your range of personal care products, including perfumes?
Holistic can mean a lot of things. In the case of my brand, holisticness covers — ethical, ecological and health. It means that for each ingredient sourced, each product made and each manufacturing or business approach taken, those are integrated and held at the highest standard. This is why I have developed a model for social business (read more: http://nadiaz.ch/business-strategy-framework/), as well as the other links below the mission. In terms of health, it also means to pay attention to and take care of our number one organ, which is our skin, as well as the health of our respiratory system, which are all affected by cosmetics. This is why I make trustable products to be used all life long and do not compromise with fashionable features, such as doing scented cosmetics, or making not concentrated formulas that would mean using more harmful preservatives and texturers.
What's the best way for us customers to educate ourselves about the harmful ingredients found in beauty products and learn about the benefits of natural compounds?
As I can't list all, I think the most important is to read the ingredients of anything one buys. Then to follow the advice on very knowledgeable websites, books and eco-labels that all try to educate the public. Rita Stiens did a good book, although in French, and here is a reference website http://laveritesurlescosmetiques.com/
There is not one reference, but there are common points to many sites, books and labels. Unfortunately, when it comes to the label, there is not one reference, because some may put more accent on ethical trade, some more on ecology, others on health, whereas it is virtually impossible to have one covering it all, so people have to apply a critical judgement and learn to analyse basically their cosmetics ingredients rather than simply follow a label.
However, what ingredients should we definitely avoid in our personal care products?
Most importantly, people should keep away from petrochemical based products and highly scented cosmetics (VOC). Then they should favour products that are oil-based and do not need preservatives, such as water-based products. Avoid silicone formulas, nanomolecules, not only for the health but also because many of these products are micro-pollutants for the environment, which we do not really know how to treat (the current waste water treatment plants are facing growing difficulties in dealing with the complexity of micro-pollutants and their interactions in the environment).
Nadia Zuodar’s tips for choosing cosmetics & skincare products:
1. Choose natural over petrochemical cosmetics
2. Prefer unrefined oils to keep the properties. Avoid hydrogenitaded oils — this is a process to make oils buttery, like the way you do margarine. Unfortunately, it requires a lot of processing, bleaching, refining and then more industrial pollution. They do that in order to give a heavier texture cheaply, rather than add plants butter that are naturally heavy.
3. Essential oils are good, but not for every day — they have precious components but also allergens. Prefer vegetable oils for everyday use. There are so many plants so far not yet well known or valorised, like the ones you find in my web: Ucuuba, Mafura, Ximenia. Diversity is important, in order not to over-use resources. So people may refrain to have one ‘miracle’ ingredient, that is how marketing is made, but the result is that you have a high demand, when in fashion, and a drop when a new fashion comes. Behind those plants are full communities that require years of patient work to grow or harvest them and when demand drops, it may result in trees destroyed and replaced. On the other hand, when demand is too high, it results in the trees getting wiped out, such as Mysore sandalwood or Argan. So, like for food, people should valorise healthy diet with diversified food, the same with the plants in their cosmetics.
4. The more simple a cosmetic formula, the more effective it is. There is no reason to put 100 ingredients in cosmetics (I put more into my perfumes, but that is different in application). You want to have a good concentration of your plants, not a symbolic value for marketing. And to avoid all additions that are there for texture, hiding scents, colouring or the like. So, when you can read and see that the ingredients are simple and botanical, it is best.
5. Adapt your expectations, feel your cosmetics for a long period of time. A good cosmetic is the one that will embellish and make your skin feel more comfortable day after day and the longer time you use it. Avoid comparing products based on one application, some products may seem magical at first, but have no long-term effect and quite the opposite — only superficial effect. So give at least 2 weeks for your plant cosmetic to perform.
6. Not all botanicals are the same. Some oils are cheaper than others. Cosmetics made with sunflower oil, rice oil, coconut oil are good, but don't put them in the same basket with the ones using more valuable indigenous plants. Few products use those oils, because it make the formulation more expensive and because it is difficult to supply. If you take pomegranate oil, have a look at the tiny seed and imagine how much harder it is to get oil from this extraordinary fruit, rather than from coco. Remember that not all natural oils have the same value.
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