Cheer up your skin during these days in isolation. Here are our editor’s beauty picks for S/S 2020.
By JOHANNA RAUDSEPP
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#WeAreTesting: Caracalla Cosmetici Roma
This incredibly unique bio-organic cosmetics brand of Italian origin, Caracalla Cosmetici, has brought an interesting and varied paraben-free range to the market – you probably don’t want to miss out on their Nourishing and Restoring facial oil, blended with 100% active ingredients and addressed to treat sensitive skin, to revive and re-energise your skin for blossoming spring. I often feel the need for an extra vitamin inject to boost up my complexion before the golden days of summer season, when skin, as the most important visible organ, needs to be *delicately* prepped for actively taking in all the mood-lifting Vitamin D, somewhere on the sunny coast of French Riviera, all the bravura. The range of luxury facial and body care offered by Caracalla Cosmetici is minimal and concise, yet well curated and thought-through, listing all the absolute essentials you need for daily skincare, from De-Pigmenting and BB creams to Caviar and Snail Drool eye cream, offering a luxurious dose of comfort and care between your regular deep-cleanse peels and fab seasonal facials.
The comfortably light texture of the Nourishing and Restoring Visage Oil mutes your skin’s uneven surfaces and gets rid of any allergic patches and blemishes that may intermittently evade your skin, leaving it nourished, smooth and photo-ready – it worked wonders and absorbed instantly, let alone the droplet cap makes it even easier to apply, without leaving the complexion oily, so I could carry on with my daily make-up routine almost instantly. I also noticed an immediate visible difference in the skin’s smoothness. The nourishing oil, injected with a high dose of vitamins E and F, and in addition to the basics, like Argan and Coconut Oils, the sweet miraculous ingredient of Rosa Mosqueta oil, surprising notes of Pumpkin, Rosemary and Lavander have been featured in the blend of active, bio-organic oils, is definitely a darling pre-bedtime pamperer, and proudly manifests itself an everyday luxury that doesn’t exactly cost a fortune.
SkinYoga: 100% Natural Empowering Beauty from India
Drawing from ancient knowledge of purifying the body, mind, and soul, there’s a new 100% natural way of adapting to ancient rituals. Luxury skincare made user-friendly - and all you need to do is just add water! Indian award-winning skincare brand SkinYoga focuses on empowering women by educating them about the worth of natural beauty and traditions. Founded by a sister-trio, this beauty brand stems from a unifying love of nature and heritage. Radhika Choudhary, one of the co-founders of SkinYoga, spoke to us about their skincare range and its sustainable future.
Words: Johanna Raudsepp
SkinYoga Post-Workout Neem Purifier.
What inspired you to create SkinYoga?
We grew up in a farm in India, where we used to grow our own vegetables, nurtured cows for dairy, and lived a very organic lifestyle. Then we moved to different parts of the world to study. We always got complimented for our skin and hair and at that made us realize it was the very simple and pure regime we had been following since our childhood. After seeing misleading claims from beauty brands that you only need 3% natural ingredients to call yourself a natural skincare brand, we were determined to develop and formulate a 100% natural and clean luxury skincare line that showed results in just one use. The idea was to create a product for the modern working women, so they could enjoy the best of ancient science and modern technology, yet without having to spend hours on different steps.
How does SkinYoga follow principles of sustainable beauty?
We are 100% natural skincare brand and all our ingredients are plant-derived, pure, and unprocessed. Few brands in the world can say they are 100% natural.
There are many dimensions to being sustainable. We have kept all our products in a powdered state to keep them highly active and potent. When you’re ready to use it, you only need to add water to activate it. The stabilizing method helps us keep the ingredients highly active without any preservatives. We focus on the smallest details, from packaging to internal operations, making sure they follow an eco-friendly process. Our team is very actively involved in the community and participates in socially responsible programs. We frequently conduct educational seminars and exhibitions highlighting the importance of sustainable beauty.
"We have concluded that a beauty regime doesn’t necessarily have to be complicated and involve 20 different beauty steps."
SkinYoga Corporate Gift Set.
Who is your beauty inspiration?
Hundreds and thousands of strong independent working women across the globe, who have and are living balanced and healthy life with lots of style, not because they have to, but because they choose to do so. They are incredibly inspiring, and thanks to our profession, we are blessed to be working with many of such women today, our mother being one of them. We would also like to add that 100% of our workforce are women today.
What is your go-to beauty routine like?
It’s quite simple: cleansing, moisturizing and good sun block in addition to at least 6 hours sleep and loads and loads of water. We at SkinYoga are always looking to further simplify beauty routines. We have concluded that a beauty regime doesn’t necessarily have to be complicated and involve 20 different beauty steps.
"Our philosophy is “If you can’t eat it, don’t put it on your body”."
SkinYoga Oats and Roses Face Wash.
What inspires you when creating new SkinYoga products?
One miracle bottle. That’s our brief behind every product. If you look at our current range we have an ideal capsule skincare range, adaptable to every age and all climate conditions. Coming back to the idea that you don’t need 10 products to take care of your skin.
Quality has become a signature to our brand. Our team works extremely hard to create products,which are clean and effective. Our philosophy is “If you can’t eat it, don’t put it on your body”. 60% of what you put on your body is directly absorbed into your blood stream. Hence, it’s important to stay away from chemicals.
How do you see the future of natural, sustainable beauty? Where is it directed?
The future of the beauty industry is heading towards natural and sustainable brands. With the growing consumers’ awareness and demand, the natural skincare category is one of the fastest growing in skincare globally. But there is a huge gap in the market still and more brands are coming to that realization.
Global demand for natural skincare products is expected to reach $13.2 billion by 2018. Thus, we will see more mainstream brands come up with natural skincare ranges in the future.
SkinYoga Green Tea Face Mask.
What are your hopes and dreams for 2017?
Our dream and mission is to get every vanity bag chemical free. We love to empower women. We want every woman to feel confident and strong in their own skin without having to apply any makeup.
2017 is an important year for SkinYoga - we are coming out with 3 new products, including our first hair care product.
Want to shop or find out more? http://www.skinyoga.in/
UK readers can buy the products here: https://www.skinyoga.co.uk/
Skinyoga Sandalwood Saffron Face Mask.
Tuul Care: Natural Grooming for Men
Cosmetics for men? And all natural? It’s a combination you definitely don’t come across too often. You might even think along the lines of ’I’m a man and I don’t need face cream!’ — well, the men’s grooming brand Tuul from Estonia will change your mind. Tuul is dedicated to taking good care of men’s skin and beards with their range of natural pampering products. The founders duo, Kädi and Kaarel, shared their story with us.
Words: Johanna Raudsepp
Kädi and Kaarel, founders of Tuul. / Photo by Tõnu Tunnel.
I hope you’re still not tired of this question, but what’s the origin story of Tuul?
We say Tuul (‘wind’ in Estonian) grew out of a personal necessity, but if we delve a bit deeper, then I [Kädi] was pregnant with our little daughter. When you’re expecting, you’re much more sensitive to all kinds of scents. Kaarel had just bought a well-known brand’s perfume, and when he had sprinkled it on in the bathroom, I actually felt nauseous [inhaling the scent], and asked him why won’t he make his own perfume without any added chemicals. He was taken aback by my snappy comment, but the next morning I woke up next to a man with dark circles under his eyes. Turns out he hadn’t slept one bit, and had figured it all out — to start a grooming brand for men.
You are a brand dedicated to men’s skincare. Which essential skincare products should every man have?
Actually, we are not only focused on skincare, but also keeping one’s hair and beard in good and healthy shape. There are products every man needs, like shampoo and deodorant (coming soon), and then there are products that make you feel good and pampered, like beard oils. Every man deserves to be spoiled from time to time.
"He was taken aback by my snappy comment, but the next morning I woke up next to a man with dark circles under his eyes. Turns out he hadn't slept one bit, and had figured it all out - to start a grooming brand for men."
Tuul men's grooming range, 2017.
Who is Tuul?
Tuul is someone who cares.
Developing a new brand is surely not easy. What has been your favourite adventure along way?
Our favourite days must be the days when we are in direct contact with our customers — meeting people, receiving their feedback, finding out what their needs are. The research and development process is also very exciting with each product — finding out what the best ingredients are, how should the result smell, feel and look. We’re always excited for collaborations as well — like the travel pouch we did together with a local leather manufacturer, Vanatool.
"Every man deserves to be spoiled from time to time."
At Savant, we pay close attention to making environmentally conscious choices when it comes to the products we use. How is Tuul sustainable in its day-to-day life?
We’re all in for organic choices. The ingredients of our upcoming products will include biologically certified herbal extracts, and the scents will be as local as possible. The nature from our region has a lot to offer — birch, juniper, peppermint are only a few examples. We prefer glass, aluminium, and paper when it comes to packaging, whereas all are recyclable materials.
What’s in store for Tuul Care fans in 2017?
By the end of the year, we hope to have reached the next level. The plans for 2018 are even greater. We like to think big!
You can find Tuul at https://tuul.care/
#WeAreTesting MOSHI Natural Beauty
Step into the New Year by replacing your old beauty favourites with new more environmentally friendly ones — January is the right time to reconsider our values, recreate ourselves and prepare for a new beginning, leave behind our mistakes, and make vital, lasting changes in our lifestyles to act for a better world, I believe.
Estonian organic beauty brand Moshi is delivering its herbal spell to the customer longing for trustworthy and effective, yet natural products. Their range of natural goodies, with a loyal Made in Estonia trademark, include all-natural, paraben-free shampoos, facial oils, body creams, scrubs and blends, and they have taken it as far as bringing their take on soy candles to the market, as part of well-being and personal care range. We were immediately allured by their fun, boosting product labels, such as ‘Naughty Girl’ (appropriate name for a body scrub) or ‘Love What You Do’. These elegant bottles with witty black-and-white labels are loyal showstoppers in every bathroom. If nothing else motivates you to start your day on a positive note, these funny Moshi captions surely do even in the gloomiest winter mornings…
Hanna-Amanda tested…
1. ’Naughty Girl’ Raspberry-Blackcurrant Body Scrub
'Naughty Girl' Raspberry-Blackcurrant Body Scrub by Moshi
When it comes to skincare products, I often want something pampering and luxurious, yet natural and refreshing. Well, there’s no need to compromise — you can be sure this Moshi body scrub has got you covered. I dipped into a steamy bath over Xmas to try its natural spell out. This luxurious body scrub immediately awakens your senses to an oasis of mmm… an extravagantly sweet infusion of summer berries. Letting your body soak after applying the scrub, you realise it’s the heavenly combo blended with olive, raspberry and blackcurrant oils. I don’t know about you, but my skin is receptive to dryness in winter, so I feel it is vital to keep that extra moist securely locked in.
The pampering scrub used before shower oils proved to be an effective way to slough away dead skin cells and get a smooth, radiant texture back instead of my fatigued and dry winter skin. After pampering myself with this lavish moisturising body scrub, I encountered visible results: skin happened to be soft, radiant and well moisturised, revealing a renewed radiance. The sweet magical smell on your skin lasts for days after use… even so, a few people had to discreetly inquire about the source referred to as mystical ‘sweet scent on your skin’. Are you up for a deep down skin cleanse twice a week? If yes, you might find out soon you have indeed been a degree naughtier…
2. ‘Love What You Do’ Pumpking Sea Buckthorn Organic Shampoo
Give your lifeless bangs a real powerful revamp by massaging this soothing paraben-free shampoo on your damp hair and scalp. To begin with, I was happy to discover the texture of this shampoo is quite liquid-y and lightweight, as a sharp contrast to many other more complex haircare products I own. ’Love What You Do’ SLS and paraben free shampoo made with citrus essential oils and aloe vera gently cleanses while rejuvenating dull and dry hair, while pumpkin and sea buckthorn take effect to replenish and restore dry hair, helping to recreate texture and pave the way for shinier bangs at the same time. Even though pumpkins and anything alike have never been my favourite thing, the fragrance is mild and delicate enough not to notice, leaving a rather refreshing feel. My hair showed an improved shine and texture, so I will definitely continue using it as an everyday treat to my dry and misbehaved hair. So long unpleasant morning showers.
Johanna tried & tested…
3. ‘Good Ideas’ Face Oil with Pumpkin and Sea Buckthorn
‘Good Ideas’ Face Oil with Pumpkin and Sea Buckthorn by Moshi
I must be honest – at first I was a bit weary of the idea of a face oil. I have used oils for my hair before, but never for my face. We always want to get rid of oily skin, so it did not make sense to add more oil to it. I am happy to admit, however, that I was mistaken. Moshi’s 'Good Ideas' face oil is 100% natural and you can definitely feel that. Instead of making my face oily, the product quickly absorbed into my skin, resulting in a soft-as-a-baby’s-skin feel. It gave me a healthy glow. During this week of testing I discovered that it’s a great product to use before applying make-up as it nourishes the skin and creates a good base to apply make-up on. The tiny 50ml bottle will last you ages, even if used daily, and it’s comes in a lovely travel sized packaging, so you can always have it with you.
4. All That Jazz Soy Wax Tealights with Teakwood Scent
Candles are candles, I feel. They don’t have a strong smell, which is good, if you’re into that mellow scent. I have no complaints. A big plus, I guess, is that if you want to be all-natural, then soy wax candles are the way to go, and Moshi does have a variety to choose from. I will certainly check out their other scents as well, this one just wasn’t one for me.
I love the no-bullshit attitude of the packaging and the ingredients. You know what you are getting and don’t get distracted by yet another pretty bottle, which might not boast great components. It’s the simplicity of Moshi’s products that makes them so unique and elegant. The fun slogans on their packaging are especially memorable, making something simple boldly stand out on your beauty counter.
Natural & Organic — Or Is It All a Marketing Ploy?
Words: Emilia Wik
Over the recent years, we as consumers have become aware of the impact chemicals have on the environment and our bodies more than ever before. As it follows, more and more companies are offering environmentally friendlier, greener and cleaner options to ease the concerns of their customers. This is visible when you’re scanning through the cosmetics department, browsing for clothes, or simply touring the supermarket aisles; words, such as ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ are popping up anywhere and everywhere more frequently than ever. So how could it spell trouble for consumers to be aware of the impact their purchases have on their surroundings and themselves? Truth be told, there is none! Instead, what’s damaging is that many companies are trying to exploit this newfound interest in sustainable products by “greenwashing” their advertisements and product offering.
So what is greenwashing you might be wondering? Greenwashing is defined by the Greenwashing Index as “when a company or organization spends more time and money claiming to be ‘green’ through advertising and marketing than actually implementing business practices that minimise environmental impact”. For instance, many companies are now fond of using green colours, earthy looking packaging and words we as consumers associate with environmentally-friendly practices, such as ‘natural’, ‘sustainable’ and ‘organic’, to make their products look earth-friendly; although what’s hiding inside is nothing else than conventionally produced goods. Because hey, sadly it’s easier to advertise differently than to change the production infrastructure.
In fashion, greenwashing can for instance consist of garments advertised as made of organic cotton, yet without the cotton being certified. This means that there’s no real proof that the textile is organic or the way it’s been treated, most commonly with harsh chemicals and dyes. When it comes to food, greenwashing can take the form of a farmhouse on the packaging next to the word ‘natural’, however, getting to the ingredient list, you then discover you can only pronounce about 10% of what’s been listed.
"What’s damaging is that many companies are trying to exploit this newfound interest in sustainable products by “greenwashing” their advertisements and product offering."
So why are companies taking the easy way out, implementing marketing strategies that fool their customers rather than introducing actual sustainable changes into their businesses practices? One of the main reasons behind this is that remodelling the norm from a conventional to a sustainable supply chain method requires vast investment in terms of time, money, resources and skills. Another one might be that it simply not possible to change the current production practices into greener strategies, e.g. there isn’t enough skilled labour or the right raw material to produce something of real value for the company. Thus, as marketing in many areas of the world is fairly unregulated, greenwashing becomes the simplest and cheapest option to reach customers who are keen on shopping greener, without having to spend much time or resources on transforming a whole company.
Greenwashing might be especially difficult to discern for people who are just becoming aware of the impact their purchases have, but also for seasonal ‘green’ shoppers, especially when a brand heavily advertises itself as organic. However, the many larger companies failing to realise the potential of growing sustainably has led to a new generation of start-ups that have this etched in their core; that dare to go an extra mile in terms of using sustainable materials as well as ethical supply chains. A rising trend amongst these smaller brands is radical transparency and honesty, meaning that they communicate openly about their ethos, supply chains and materials used, making it easier for us as customers to see what they stand for and how sustainable their operations are.
So what can we as consumers do to combat greenwashing? Try to look at the bigger picture and don’t focus solely on advertisements and words printed on the packaging, but analyse how the company acts as a whole; do they have any certifications to prove what they are claiming and are they transparent in the way they act? If not, dare to ask questions and if you receive vague answers be vary, it might be another example of greenwashing gone too far.
"Analyse how the company acts as a whole; do they have any certifications to prove what they are claiming and are they transparent in the way they act?"
I truly hope that 2017 will bring more consumer interest in looking beyond advertisements and clever wording into what brands actually stand for and endeavour to do. Because the huge effort that goes into creating something truly ethical and sustainable should be recognised and thus rewarded, so let’s not let the greenwashers win this one.
Written by Emilia Wik, Founder of Scandinavian Slow Fashion brand BYEM (link: www.BYEM.com)
#WeAreTesting: Artisanal Apothecary by Evolve Beauty
Artisanal producer of green cosmetics, Evolve Beauty from Hertfordshire, UK, shares their expertise on the benefits of hand-crafted, natural beauty blends. Their organic apothecary range so far consists of facial, body and hair products. All their products are vegan, cruelty-free and produced in small batches, to ensure the freshness of superfood based ingredients.
Hyaluronic Serum 200, Evolve Beauty UK.
Savant tested their most popular products — Hyaluronic Serum 200 and Daily Renew Facial Cream with Argan oil for a week. The delicate pomegranate-infused serum with rose petal scent gave our skin a nice healthy glow and repaired the skin’s uneven surfaces when applied overnight. The Daily Renew cream, scented with delicate coconut aroma, offers 24-hour protection against irritation and is perfect for preparing the skin for winter, when it is more receptive to dryness and eczema.
What are the benefits of organic facial oils and serums?
Using Organic skincare is highly recommended. Not only are organic products better for the environment, containing no nasty ingredients or synthetic fragrances, but they are more earth-friendly and truly repairing your skin texture. Synthetic ingredients can cause irritation and, ultimately, ageing of the skin (inflamm-ageing).
What's the most popular product out of your own range?
Our most popular facial product is the Hyaluronic Serum 200. It contains 200mg of low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid which has the ability to retain 1000 times its weight in water. It also contains Organic Pomegranate extract, which softens and protects. It has been delicately fragranced with organic rosewater.
What could be the reason behind our beauty counters turning more organic and fuss-free? Why do we now care about what we put on our faces as much as we care about what goes into our bodies?
Same as above really — fuss-free cosmetics give therapeutic and more effective results. Customers are becoming more and more aware of the effect of synthetic ingredients in they beauty products and are therefore turning to organic en masse…
"Plants that survive in very harsh environments have developed special coping mechanisms — think about the rainforest, where it’s very hot and humid… perfect place for bacteria to grow! Some rainforest plants have the ability to fight off bacteria when applied to the skin."
Name your other organic go-to products and brands that deserve a shoutout.
This is slightly biased, but I’ll say S5 Skincare! S5 is a range of organic cosmeceutical products based on ingredients sourced from the 5 most extreme ecosystems. Plants that survive in very harsh environments have developed special coping mechanisms — think about the rainforest, where it’s very hot and humid… perfect place for bacteria to grow! Some rainforest plants have the ability to fight off bacteria when applied to the skin. Fascinating!
Besides beauty, what other 'green lifestyle' principles are represented in your everyday life?
100% organic food! Also, cleansing products that are as natural as possible.
Daily Renew Facial Cream, Evolve Beauty UK.
How did you do the testing and find out which combinations would actually work together?
We work in very close collaboration with our ingredient suppliers, who advise us on formulation. Our little lab is also excellent at coming up with trump formulations! We are also running customer surveys to ask our customers, what they feel is missing from the range, and what they would like to see launched.
Who is the target audience for green beauty?
Anyone and everyone. I see more people, who were accustomed to using only conventional skincare, now slowly turning to natural and organic, so we see everyone as a potential customer.
The beauty of the healing effect of organic beauty is that, in order to see the difference, you need to religiously apply the products every day, but after noticing the visible, lasting results that help us feel good in our own skin, this becomes a second nature.