From Japanese House to Centrifugal Soul: Your Culture Guide to April

Do - The Japanese House, Barbican. While away an afternoon weaving in and out of The Japanese House's ten individual, fully-furnished rooms and maze-like gardens. Rabbit chairs, sliding libraries and an outdoor cinema are just some of the details that make up Moriyama's remarkable domestic environment. Until 25th June 2017. 

The Japanese House, Barbican. 

The Japanese House, Barbican. 

Contemporary Living, Christie's South Kensington. 

Contemporary Living, Christie's South Kensington. 

See - Contemporary Living: Art, Craft & Design (April 1st - 4th) at Christie's South Kensington, 85 Old Brompton Road, Kensington, London SW7 3LD. Christie's latest offering in collaboration with The New Craftsmen and Southern Guild features contemporary designers, craftsmen and artists. Open for just four days, the exhibition will change each day with pieces by Sebastian Cox, Georgia Campbell and David Krynauw.

The Marksman Public House. 

The Marksman Public House. 

Eat - The Marksman Public House. Recently voted Michelin Pub of The Year 2017, The Marksman offers menus inspired by the rich and diverse culinary history of London, focusing on the best of British seasonal food and drinks in a friendly, welcoming atmosphere. 

Mat Collishaw, The Centrifugal Soul. 

Mat Collishaw, The Centrifugal Soul. 

Visit - Blain|Southern. In The Centrifugal Soul, Mat Collishaw’s forthcoming exhibition at Blain|Southern, the artist presents new sculpture, installation and paintings. Drawing on various forms of illusion, the exhibition explores ideas of superficial truth and the erosive effect of our primal urges for visual supremacy. From April 7th 2017. 

Joan Didion. 

Joan Didion. 

Read - South and West, Joan Didion. Joan Didion has always kept notebooks of overheard dialogue, interviews, observations and articles. South and West offers a glimpse into her never before seen notebooks, offering an illuminating glimpse into the mind and process of a legendary writer. 

SUSS UK: Imagine a World Where Fashion is Fair...

SUSS UK proudly announce a Kickstarter campaign for its upcoming pop-up concept store, promoting a sustainable lifestyle with ethical, environmentally and human friendly brands. Founded by two fashion industry veterans, SUSS UK are concerned about the irreversible damage being caused by our excessive levels of consumption. In just one year, the clothes discarded in the UK alone could fill Wembley stadium, the equivalent of 1.5 million tonnes of landfill every 365 days. 

The aim of the Kickstarter is to create a state of the art concept store open throughout September, stocking brands from across the globe including womenswear, menswear, kids-wear, homeware, beauty and food and drink, whereas offering an entire lifestyle not just a fad. What makes this pop-up different, however, is what it offers an experience beyond the shop floor. A series of talks will run throughout, with industry heavyweights giving insight into their sustainable life, whilst interactive workshops will give consumers a hands-on experience.

Savant spoke with the founders duo, Emma Grace Bailey and Abigail Grainger. 

What is SUSS UK in a nutshell?

SUSS UK is a start-up that aims to help change attitudes towards consumption by providing insight into the destructive nature of the fast fashion industry, inspiring people to buy better by providing access to sustainable alternatives that remain as stylish their high street counterparts. We love fashion, but we love our planet too. 

How does your professional background link with establishing SUSS?

Both of us have worked in the fashion industry now for a collective 20 or so years, Abi as a designer for the high street and Emma as a journalist, and so we have first hand experience of the inner workings and the very real need for change to prolong the industry that we love. 

What inspired you to take action and create your own start-up? 

Combining education and access, we're not just a shop trying to sell yet another fashion trend, and instead focus heavily on creating inspiring and insightful talks and workshops with some of the industry's most forward-thinking pioneers, teaching people about the devastating effects of fast fashion that are so often hidden away. Greater knowledge allows for more informed decisions and we truly believe that people are becoming more actively engaged in how they can help make a difference, no matter how small it might be. 

“Sustainability is not a trend. It is a necessary step which the fashion industry must take for the future of our planet. All consumers deserve to know exactly what they’re buying.” 

What are the main prospects and values represented by you?

Raising awareness is our main driver - the more people know about the issues caused by excessive consumption, from the start of the supply chain right through to the end with how we choose to wash and dispose of our garments, the more hope we have of making a positive difference.

We value honesty, transparency and the right intentions, values we instill into everything we do.

What are the different industries you aim to connect?

We want to offer a complete sustainable and holistic lifestyle, bringing together fashion, beauty, food and drink and even personal care, showing that with the smallest of changes we can make our every day life that little bit more conscience. But it's not just about what we buy. We are also dedicated to providing people with little tips and tricks that they can adopt on a daily basis to help make a difference.

Our Sustainable September tips series last year on Instagram saw beautiful illustrations depicting simple steps, such as taking the stairs rather than the lift or only hanging one item of clothing on each hanger so you know exactly what you own. We also celebrate people's efforts with our #isusseditout social media campaign - where we encourage people to take a photo of themselves holding up our hashtag, post it to Instagram and tell us how they're working towards a more sustainable life. 

What can we look forward to at the first pop-up event on April 8th? What brands will be represented?

Our first pop-up promises to provide a truly immersive offering that will enable visitors to not only support the super cool and sustainable brands we have on board in our store, but also actively participate in leading discussions about the future of the industry, the issues it causes from crop contamination to water scarcity, and hear from people that have been inspired to change their way of life in a bid to help counteract these effects.

In the store, we will showcase a carefully curated selection of stylish and forward-thinking brands from the likes of Kowtow, Ono Creations, Auria Swimwear and Kind. We want to change the way people view sustainable product by presenting it in a way that is exciting, design-led and on trend, which is why we are collaborating with a top set designer to help create a concept store that is an experience in itself. 

"We are very aware of the need to take a step back - not only to gain perspective but to bring a sense of calm into the craziness." 

What is your personal relationship with fashion?

Our personal connection to fashion goes right back to university days with both of us attending UAL, where we fell in love with the creativity, energy and beauty of the fashion world. Through this relationship it became clear to us that the issue of sustainability was only growing, and reactionary action wasn't coming quickly enough.

If you had to bring out your main concerns about the fast fashion industry, these would be...

We currently live as though the world is ours to own, but we are only tenants and we need to leave this planet how we would like to find it. Our fast fashion culture isn’t helping, and the secretive nature of the industry is only making it harder for consumers to realise the impact it has on our environment.

What is your personal relationship with meaningful living?

Living in London it's so difficult to disconnect and slow down - the fashion industry is fast-paced and as a result our lives are too. We are very aware of the need to take a step back - not only to gain perspective but to bring a sense of calm into the craziness. 

Although sustainability is trending, why do you think there is still very little awareness about sustainable fashion? How can we make it more visible and appreciated?

It's because sustainability is trending that it's not being taken seriously by the everyday consumer. Trends are fleeting - if people don't connect with them or understand them they're ignored as another one will be along in a moment. This cannot happen with sustainability. 

This isn't to say, however, that we should be condemning high street brands, but instead lets draw attention to the practices they already have in place to be more sustainable, and highlight the changes they plan to make for the future. Lets be more transparent about what they do and don't do, let's ask more questions. 

At present, the consumer associates the word with design that isn't stylish, that isn't cool, that isn't desirable. This isn't true, but until the brands that combine both style and sustainability get more attention and exposure - outside of the circle they currently live in - this perception won't be easy to shift. 

Fashion With a Conscience: Kickstarter Pledge Party:

Saturday, April 8th 2017

7.30pm-22.30pm @Stunt Dolly Salon, 582 Kingsland Road, Dalston Junction, E8 4AH

You can support the cause here

 

Arra Textiles: Handwoven With Love and Zero Waste

From the rugged mountains to shimmering lochs, Scotland has plenty to offer for one who seeks a balanced life. Drawing inspiration from nature, the Scottish zero-waste brand Arra produces long-lasting handwoven textiles. Their bespoke products are timeless and easy-to-wear. We spoke to Lucy MacDonald, textile designer at Arra Textiles, about how her design inspiration aligns with slow design principles.

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

Arra Textiles Merino Wool Throws.

Arra Textiles Merino Wool Throws.

How did you end up in the world of textile design?

My art teacher at school suggested I look at studying textiles after I created a dress made from recycled materials. I studied textile design at university in Scotland and Finland, specialising in weave. 

What is your favourite part about designing textiles?

I enjoy seeing a design evolve from being an idea in my head to a finished product and seeing and hearing people's reactions to receiving a piece as a gift or when they first see the work.

What is it about slow living and design that you love and why?

I like a piece to have a story behind it or meaning. I like to think that a blanket will be passed down through a family and become a part of a family's history. 

Ripple Cowl Scarf.

Besides being sustainable in your creative approach, do you follow such principles in your daily life? 

I try to buy clothes that will last and are made ethically and I use locally grown and/or home grown produce.

"I like to think that a blanket will be passed down through a family and become a part of a family's history." 

Wave Throws.

Ripple Cowl Scarf.

What has been the greatest thing you have learned along the way?

Patience! Starting a business is a slow but rewarding process! Also, people enjoy meeting the person behind the brand and like to have a story to go with a product.

You draw a lot of inspiration from the sea. How do you go about designing a new textile or print for Arra?

I take lots of photos and I make collages. I use the collages mainly for colour inspiration. I like to let the patterns develop by changing small parts of the design at a time.

 If you had to describe Arra Textiles with a piece of music, this would be...

It's hard to choose just one piece of music to describe Arra Textiles, as I like to think that each collection has a different feel and mood to it. If I had to choose a genre of music then it would definitely be a symphony. Separate design influences of light, sea and the natural world are woven together like an orchestral score where colour hues, weave structures and carefully chosen yarns combine to create a harmony within the final piece. 

Arra Textiles Ebb Throw.

Arra Textiles Ebb Throw.

You can purchase Arra Textiles here.

 

Everyday Ethical Luxury from Berlin: LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories

One of my favourite things about ethical fashion is how it urges creators to think outside of the box and be innovative in their entire design process. LUCKYNELLY’s animal-friendly ethos focuses on bold, elevated everyday luxury accessories. Made in Berlin, yet produced in Milan, LUCKYNELLY is challenging the norm of sustainability. From bags to jewellery to silk scarves - yes, even including touches of ethical silk! - their everyday goodies are true show-stoppers. Christine Rochlitz, founder of LUCKYNELLY, shared her take on slow design accessories.

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

Your entire brand focuses deeply on ethical creation. What do you value most about sustainable design?

For me, sustainable design means a slower approach [to creating] where no mass consumption principles are implemented. I remember when I was a teenager, there was a denim store near my hometown. I loved to wear super skinny denim from Levi’s and, at this time, they were already quite expensive. I had one pair in blue and one in black. I wore them for a few years and was always so proud of my jeans. 

Today, with all those big fast fashion chains, you don’t have the opportunity to ‘love’ your clothes because fashion and new trends change too fast, and it leaves you forever with an unsatisfactory feeling. Quality should really be more important than quantity. As Vivienne Westwood put it: 'Buy less, choose well, make it last.'

What's your take on slow living?

Slow living to me means that you focus more on things that are really important in life, like being happy, spending time with family and friends or pets, being outside, and spending time cooking. People are living at a fast pace every day, so they are always overwhelmed and their lives are non-stop, chaotic. I think it is time to enjoy life more and to flee of all this pressure.

"Today, with all those big fast fashion chains, you don’t have the opportunity to ‘love’ your clothes because fashion and new trends change too fast, and it leaves you forever with an unsatisfactory feeling."

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

Where do you draw inspiration from?

Nature inspires me the most. There are so many beautiful creatures and plants in absolutely fantastic colors and structures - for example, the Rose Chafer. For the Peace Silk Scarves [collection] I was inspired by images I took of flowers with my Canon Cam, and changed the colours and layers. But also my materials inspire me - working with things such as the genuine wood material, which is easy to work with, and the slate stone.

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

What is LUCKYNELLY's vision towards a sustainable future?

The vision of LUCKYNELLY is that people buy more carefully, thinking of where the clothes come from and if an animal or human had to die or suffer to create it, and truly act upon it. LUCKYNELLY also aims to demonstrate that vegan alternatives to animal leather are luxurious, fashionable, and fair-trade.

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

You can buy LUCKYNELLY accessories here.

 

#SavantGiveaway: Ice from Ash Ethical Jewellery

Interview with Anneliese Hauptstein, Designer and Director of Ice from Ash

What led to your interest in crafting zero waste jewellery?

My degree in Industrial Design exposed me to the reality of our consumer culture, the devastating condition of our environment and the unfortunate division of designing from crafting. Where once a designer was a maker and an expert in their material, the methods and forms, now the focus has shifted to the market, the machine and the bottom line. I chose instead to follow my passion for the materials themselves. I did a PhD in Materials Science and started my own studio exploring and experimenting with the most interesting materials and processes I could find. I keep it small, slow and local, working with natural materials and striving to make the best design choices I can, such as using recycled packaging and branding my own boxes.

What materials are you using?

My latest love is ceramics. I have a little kiln and I have been experimenting with melting silver wire works into ceramic pieces.

I am constantly looking into new processes and materials and weighing their pro-s and cons, whether that be the sustainability of the resource, the ethics of manufacture, or the energy in transport. I use a lot of silver, because it’s strong, durable, lovely to work with and recyclable. I use some leather, usually Kangaroo, as it is local, compostable and abundant. I have also started making pieces using mushroom and kombucha leather as a vegan alternative.

"Where once a designer was a maker and an expert in their material, the methods and forms, now the focus has shifted to the market, the machine and
the bottom line."

What does the whole process look like from the idea to actual pieces taking shape? What's the most difficult aspect of the making part?

I have a collection of little notebooks with research on subjects as varied as the Kikuchi patterns of crystals to evidence of aliens in ancient decoration. I add notes and sketches as I come across information that follows the tread. There is always a focus on the materials I could use and the techniques for making, so at some point this starts to take shape in the form of designs. I never really know how a piece will turn out when I sit down, but I do a lot of planning.

I find the most difficult part is staying true to the concept and not getting distracted by other ideas as I’m making. I work with other artisans to work out techniques and I try to make a lot of the decisions about materials, chains, clasps, shapes and construction before I sit down.

Who or what inspires you the most? Do you use any symbolism?

I am inspired by the various ways people from all over the world tell stories. The written languages themselves, of course, but also pictorial illustration, such as cave paintings, carvings, patterns and especially tattoos. I have had a fascination with tattooing for long time and love finding the hidden meanings in the assembly of images. The intersection of mythology and science also fascinates me.  My newest pieces refer to the flow of matter and energy from one state to another, starting with a sound and transitioning through the 5 elements of earth, wind, fire, water and ether. To me this is the oldest story.

Why is the synergy of nature and more material human world important to you?

Something fundamental changed when humans started creating their own materials and I feel it is very important for us to take full responsibility for the consequences of those choices and educate others to do the same. We can choose to surround ourselves with objects that are functional, durable, sustainable and desirable. In that way we will look after and respect the things we purchase.

"My newest pieces refer to the flow of matter and energy from one state to another, starting with a sound and transitioning through the 5 elements of earth, wind, fire, water and ether."

What defines good quality in jewellery design?

Quality to me is about a few things. How it makes me feel, how well it works on the body and how well it is made for its purpose. To me it is about artistic expression, cultural connection and personal style.

What's the meaning of the name, 'Ice from Ash'?

It refers to a process of transformation and alchemy, transitioning from one element to another in a way that goes against what we take to be possible, as if by magic.

What are your personal tips to a more meaningful lifestyle and how to get into a habit of consuming less?

Consuming to fulfill needs is just a mindset we have been taught. To change this habit we need to find fulfillment from within instead, in our actions, relationships, environment and ideas. Consuming in itself is not evil, objects are essential, we just need to learn to be mindful when we take something and kind when we give it back.

http://icefromash.com/wp/


Ice from Ash 'Wave Pendant' Necklace GIVEAWAY:

To WIN this gorgeous hand-made jewellery piece, follow @savant_magazine AND @icefromash on Instagram and comment #SavantGiveaway under the photo above.

Ice from Ash 'Wave Pendant'

Toneware with a Sea Urchin imprint, glazed with a handmade pumice and iron oxide blend and finished with a little sterling silver spot. 
Sterling silver fittings and chain. 
Packaged in a recycled card box.
Valued at $250AUD.

 

Aparaaditehas, Tartu: Slow Store Opens Its Doors

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

We are glad to announce that our friends and partners from Slow.ee have now opened their very first slow fashion store in Tartu, Estonia! The brand new Slow Store is located at Aparaaditehas (Apparatus Factory), which has long been a fantastic new lifestyle hub connecting sustainable design, creativity and food, enjoyed by the young and the old alike. 

The open conceptual space with high windows truly emphasizes taking it slow - taking that moment to breathe and being grateful for the simple things in life. Slow features a variety of conscious fashion brands and beauty products, but when it comes to product choices, sky is the limit! They also showcase sustainable lifestyle products and tasty treats. I got to try vegan chocolate from their shop and it was a-ma-zing.

Where is Slow heading now? Store owner and sustainability activist, Helen Puistaja, tells us the aim now is to go with the flow. “We have worked extremely hard to achieve this dream of having our own Slow store. Now that it’s here, we just want to take it all in and enjoy the moment.”

“I’m actually curious to know what items and brands our clients love most,” says Helen. She is looking forward to other curious minds coming in and discovering the realm of slow life. And let me tell you - it is definitely worth checking out! One’s own eye is the king.

 

Editorial: Pampa Outlaw by tHerapy Berlin

We explore our Argentinian roots, our identity, history and popular culture. With this collection we want to rethink the local fashion industry.

Photo & Styling: Mariángeles y Paula Aguirre, @poli_aguirre
Model: Eugenia Robles, @eurobless
Full wardrobe: Pampa Outlaw collection by Therapy Recycle & Exorcise, @therapy_recyclexorcise_berlin
Locations: Región Pampeana de Córdoba, Argentina
Special thanks to Jorge Valinotto for taking us to these awesome locations, @jorge_valinotto

We concentrated on traditional icons from our popular culture, such as the famous pagan figure of the Gauchito Gil, a local gaucho from the 19th century who was both a martyr and a renegade.

The gaucho figure was our main source of inspiration for the aesthetic and concept of this collection. The gaucho, our local cowboy, was a criollo, the son of the Spanish colonizer and the aborigines. He was typically a rebel, an outsider who lived by his own rules, in harmony with nature and the original inhabitants of this lands, the Pampas. The gaucho defended national values, but even so, he was considered a rebel. He did not respect the ruling political class that responded to the Spanish crown. In many cases, the gaucho was considered a bandit for living isolated from society, a society that he considered corrupt and europeanizing.

By producing this collection we did not only avoid generating waste. We also used waste as our basic raw material. 90% of he collection is composed of leather and metal discards from the local industry of leather goods and footwear in Argentina, as well as discarded materials from the production of our own former collections and some customized vintage pieces of clothing. The other 10% of the materials is composed of new supplies necessary for the completion of the garments (rivets, eyelets).

The leather and metalic waste we used can be found in some rare deposits that sell these remnants. They are purchased by private individuals for personal use. There is no national policy for the treatment or use of this type of disposal materials, which end up in most cases in the trash can. We intend to open a debate about the sustainability of the fashion industry in Argentina. We are also aware that particularly leather production is highly polluting. We also intend to focus on this issue and ask questions that lead to possible sustainable alternatives.

500 kg of chemicals are needed to process one ton of leather. The production generates large volumes of solid and liquid waste with a combination of organic and inorganic compounds. Great leather industries in Argentina have not adopted effective strategies to end the problem of contamination of water by dumping of dangerous substances, taking advantage of lax local legislation and lack of controls. ACUMAR is the agency dedicated to monitoring and controlling the environmental situation in the area.

 

Our TOP 5 Spring Beauty Favourites

1. All You Need Is Me natural ointment by True Organic of Sweden

Spring here in the Northern hemisphere takes a while to turn from crispy cold to cozy and delicate freshness. That’s why we appreciate the All You Need Is Me natural ointment by True Organic of Sweden as a part of our daily skincare routine. This natural blend is suitable for use anywhere and everywhere - even on your lips! It moisturizes as well as heals chapped skin. The travel-size version is perfect for popping into your purse!

Product website

 

2. Tucuma Cocoon Ultra-Soft Deo by NadiaZ

Sweating is not cool in any case, but nor are the aggressive chemicals and aluminium salts found in most regular deodorants. Swiss luxury range cosmetics brand NadiaZ offers a great alternative in the form of an artisanal blend of active indigenous plant based ingredients, helping to protect from unpleasant bodily odours in a more natural way. NadiaZ Tucuma Cocoon Ultra-Soft Deo, inspired by the founder's research on Amazonian plants, with an easy-to-apply thick texture doesn’t even attempt to be your continuous 24h protection, but realistically needs to be re-applied every now and then to prevent you from sweating. If this means benefiting from the nature at its finest, we go in all the way. For effective results, make the best out of respecting the ancient rituals and ditch all the chemos.

Product website

 

3. Hyaluronic Acid Cream Mask by LUMI

Prepare your skin to soak in all the lovely sun with the revitalising Hyaluronic Acid Cream Mask by LUMI. The mask is extremely moisturising and nourishing and perfect for all skin types. It’s easy to use and carries great results. Your skin will be fresh and glowing.

Product website


 

 

4. Peppermint Floral Water by Dabba

One of the best things about Spring are the smell of fresh grass and dewy mornings. That’s why we love Dabba’s Peppermint Floral Water in a convenient glass spray bottle! It’s a refreshing and cleansing toner that can wake you up even on the gloomiest of days.

Product website
 


 

5. Vegan Lipsticks by Axiology

If you’re looking to brighten up your look this season, why not try out Axiology’s Vegan Lipsticks? Their creamy and moist, yet light texture is ideal for everyday use. Axiology carries a variety of shades from soft nudes to dark as the night, making it easy to mix and match with different outfits on every occasion. There’s something for everyone. What better way to welcome Spring than making a conscious make-up choice!

Product website