THOREAU London: A Versatile Eco Label Striving for Collective Conscience

Hanna-Amanda P. G. February 3, 2017

Established only in 2016, Thoreau is a London-based ethical label offering versatile smart wear pieces that never go out of style. Operating on the principle of ‘personal style/collective conscience’, Thoreau believes that each garment carries a meaningful story even before reaching the wearer. In addition to manufacturing responsibly in the UK, we love Thoreau for boycotting ‘the buy it, wear it, bin it’ cycle of fast fashion, and for their stunningly chic cocktail dresses, equally suitable for a late-night soirée in the city, or as a more elegant take on everyday office wear…

What are your brand's key sustainability principles?

My business partner and I are vegan, so the environment and animal rights were the first non-negotiable principles for us. Second, ensuring that our garments are made by people who are treated and paid fairly was also a very high priority. Both of these principles drove our early decisions regarding reclaimed and sustainable materials and manufacturing in the UK to support local industry.

What informed the creation of Thoreau?

Our core motto that we always come back to is "personal style/collective conscience". We believe that you don't have to sacrifice style in order to be a responsible citizen. I wanted to create modern, versatile and affordable pieces for women who love fashion, care about quality and also want the garment to have as minimal impact on the planet as possible.

What dictated the creative direction you have chosen to go forward with?

I have always loved the 1960's/70's fashion and am drawn to this look, but longevity and versatility were the driving factors behind the garments. I wanted to imagine the pieces in my wardrobe in five or ten years, and have the garments move through seasons and looks beautifully.

"It’s hard to ignore the fact that your garment has had a whole life before you even take it home... Who made it? Were they paid fairly? Are the dyes toxic?"

How can we all make more mindful decisions regarding the garments we choose to buy? How important is quality versus quantity for you personally?

We think it is important that people are aware of the solutions as well as the problems. Otherwise helplessness and fear take over and nothing gets solved. Educating people about the things they consume and their impact on the planet is something we feel strongly about and are keen to promote as we grow. It's important to seek out brands that actively support and promote both social and environmentally responsible practices. If the price seems like a bargain, it's probably because the people who made the garment were paid almost nothing. Rather than buying 5 extremely cheap tops that you throw away soon after, seek out one good quality top that is made of sustainable materials by people paid fairly...and you'll realise it lasts for years!

"We believe that you don't have to sacrifice style in order to be a responsible citizen."

THOREAU_FINN TOP_CASPIAN PRINT_FRONT.jpg

How do you aim to compete with the cult of fast fashion as a fairly new ethical brand?

It's definitely a challenge! We see fast fashion as a quick fix, going out and just buying without thinking about, if you really love it and what it's history is. It’s hard to ignore the fact that your garment has had a whole life before you even take it home... Who made it? Were they paid fairly? Are the dyes toxic? We hope this conversation grows along with our brand.

What's the 1 must-have item from your latest collection?

The Javan Dress! I have always found it difficult to find eco-friendly cocktail dresses. I wanted to create something that would be perfect for parties and prove that eco doesn't have to be boring!

Shop here:

https://www.thoreauthelabel.com

ELLISS London: Unconsciously Conscious Organic Jersey Wear

Hanna-Amanda P. G. December 13, 2016

ELLISS is a London-based responsible brand focusing on organic jersey wear. The collection 'Unconsciously Conscious' speaks of choosing responsible clothing unconsciously for its aesthetics rather than merely ethical production. Their vintage-inspired jersey wear, using ultra nostalgic silhouettes, sported by vulnerable looking girls, is not only visually appetising, but out-of-this-world comfy, too. Even so much so, we want to keep it close all winter long...

*ELLISS 'Unconsciously Conscious' lookbook, 2016.*

How does ELLISS connect sustainability and fashion?

We use organic materials and manufacture in England to maintain a low carbon footprint and are conscious of every element of the design process to waste as little as possible.

What are the main aspects ELLISS as a responsible fashion brand looks to improve?

I would like to show that sustainable fashion can be stylish. The design is very important to me. I want people to buy the clothes because of the way they look, rather than just because they are consciously made. The collection is called ‘Unconscious Clothing’, I want the women who buy my clothes to not necessarily be looking for something eco-friendly, but to choose a piece because of the design – to unconsciously be conscious.

Why is it so difficult to get something responsible manufactured in Britain?

It isn’t difficult to have things responsibly manufactured in the UK as you can oversee the production. However, it did take time to find the right factory. The options are few, but I am lucky to have found a factory I can work closely with. The price is slightly higher in the UK than abroad, but the quality is fantastic.

What inspired the creative direction for ELLISS? Who is perhaps your muse?

The creative direction has happened very naturally from working with great teams on the shoots. Amy, the model in our lookbook, is incredible — she has the ability to look so vulnerable and confident at the same time. That is something that is important to me, to show women in a natural way. We just released a behind-the-scenes film of the launch presentation, which is a candid look at the girls, the playful, real moments.

"I want the women who buy my clothes to not necessarily be looking for something eco-friendly, but to choose a piece because of the design – to unconsciously be conscious."

What personally bothers you the most about fast fashion? How can we still look good with less?

The waste — the nature of the way people buy clothes needs to change. The best way to shop is to buy less, but pieces you really love. Curate your wardrobe.

How much importance does sustainable living have in your everyday?

It plays a big part in the way that I think. I like to buy vintage clothes – that is one of the reasons I decided to focus on jersey wear. Vintage shopping is great for a trousers and outerwear, but when it comes to lingerie and T-shirts – you want something fresh and new. I love wearing matching jersey underwear and a soft T with a pair of vintage jeans.

"The best way to shop is to buy less, but pieces you really love. Curate your wardrobe."

What makes it tricky to have an entirely Made in Britain clothing brand?

Manufacturing in the Britain is more expensive, but it means that you have control of the production and can see everything that is going on throughout the process. I think it is important for the customer to know where their products are coming from.

www.elliss.co.uk

Study 34 & The New Crew: Quintessentially British Functional Knitwear

Hanna-Amanda P. G. December 11, 2016

Study 34 is a quintessentially British responsible knitwear brand for the intelligent woman in the know of all things sustainable. Fun fact: it was born from a simple functionality issue - more often than not, functional garments come with all the unnecessary buttons and pockets and keyhole fastenings, leaving little space for beautiful simplicity. We took a glimpse into the world of Eleanor O'Neill, author of Study 34 clothing brand and writer on sustainable fashion, about her latest 'The New Crew' knitwear collection and passion for sustainability...

How did you become interested in all things sustainable? In particular, what led to interest in fashion x sustainability?

The knowledge I have gained has come from talking to lots of people with much more knowledge than me, as well as reading – I do a lot of that!

I’d say I really become interested during my first internship in the fashion industry, which was for the global supply chain manager Li & Fung in New York. Once you’re exposed to the reality of the fashion system, you start to question things more…

What were the main aspects you wanted to improve when starting with your own responsible fashion brand called Study 34?

I think I had quite a few things on my mind at the beginning. Firstly, it was about style. I like simple, timeless, but modern shapes in knitwear and all the pieces I liked were always out of my price range – we’re talking hundreds of pounds. I wanted that aesthetic to be more attainable.

I’m really passionate about the manufacture of clothing, too. I found it quite frustrating sitting at a desk and drawing things, when I was working for larger brands, and never having the chance to improve my knowledge of construction. It seemed silly, I probably always made the same mistakes but never knew because it was someone else’s job to correct them. When I first started STUDY 34, I made everything in my studio with domestic machines and I learnt a great deal about construction during that time.

“The overproduction and consumption of badly made garments has resulted not just in waste but in clothing itself becoming a totally undervalued part of our society. It has become disposable.”

In the intro describing the production process of your new jumper in a British factory you mention many complex issues. In a nutshell, why is it so difficult to get something responsible manufactured in Britain?

It’s not the ‘responsible’ part that’s the problem necessarily; it’s just that when you’re starting out, you’re often working to a factory’s minimums, so it’s hard to get your foot in the door because it doesn’t make you very desirable. You often have to work with what you can get so to speak, which is often not exactly what you wanted…

Who is the woman The New Crew is aimed at?

The STUDY 34 woman is creative, intelligent and interested in the world around her. She’s busy and she needs to be comfortable and look good while she’s going about her day.

“I’m always talking to people and getting their perspective on the fashion industry, as well as meeting people who make amazing things. All of these activities play a huge role in my day.”

What are the main concerns that should be addressed when in comes to fashion industry's irresponsible ways? What personally bothers you the most?

I get asked this a lot and it’s hard to answer because there are so many things to learn and as one person, you can only explore so much at one time. There are a number of things that bother me more than others, though, and the first is working conditions. That anyone can turn a blind eye to what’s happening in a lot of factories I find shocking.

The second is waste. The over production and consumption of badly made garments has resulted not just in waste but in clothing itself becoming a totally undervalued part of our society. It has become disposable.

What's your personal link with leading a sustainable lifestyle? How big is the role it plays in your everyday?

Every day I strive to keep learning and expand my knowledge of different areas of the supply chain, whether it’s to do with materials, water usage, design, washing etc. I’m always talking to people and getting their perspective on the fashion industry, as well as meeting people who make amazing things. All of these activities play a huge role in my day.

What's the best advice you have been given in order not to give up your pursuit of creating clothing Made in Britain?

I’m not sure anyone has ever advised me NOT to give up… our textile industry has so diminished in the UK, it remains very difficult.

How can we make this world a better place and reduce consumption?

Buy thinking before you buy and by valuing the things that you DO buy.

https://www.study34.co.uk