Vera Bulder: "Change in the Modelling Industry Surely is Happening" #WOMENWHOWORK

In this series, we explore the portrait of Vera Bulder. We discuss the meaning of femininity, the challenges of today’s modelling industry and Vera’s connection with environmentalism.

By HANNA-AMANDA PANT

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Lingerie-Talks: Redefining Sexuality with Undress Code

As a conscious lingerie brand from Poland, Undress Code for the mythical modern woman aims to decode the way we perceive sexuality, and bring change to comfort in lingerie design through honest, relatable story-telling. We had a cozy feminine lingerie-talk with Izabela Godlewska, one of the founders of UC. 

Undress Code, lookbook SS17. 

Undress Code, lookbook SS17. 

What is the meaning of femininity for you and how is it appreciated with the Undress Code wearer?

Undress Code is a brand for the modern woman, so we understand being feminine as being courageous, modern, strong and conscious, but at the same time taking care of ourselves inside out. We believe that being a modern woman is the most sexy and feminine thing that exists. As a brand, we support and promote initiatives and organisations promoting women, and have decided to form a community for women seeking conscious solutions. In this way, we want to achieve something more than just being a fashion brand: we want our products to be a symbol of the modern and entirely fulfilled women.

What defines the quality of a good underwear and basics we wear beneath our clothes?

There are two things defining good quality underwear: comfort and style that represents our personality. Style is very individual, but if we dig deeper into comfort, we should think about the materials used and how soft and nice are they to touch. We must remember we will wear them every day, not only for special occasions! We should also do a quality-check on the fit. I am a strong supporter of soft lingerie. Why should we use any wires in lingerie, if we can have pieces that are super soft and easy to forget about [when worn], but at the same time reliable? And the last thing that defines quality is the way our lingerie is sewed. Undress Code lingerie is sown together in a seamless way, which naturally grants great comfort. 

"We believe that sexuality should not be reflected in what we wear. It should be built inside and reflected in women's self-confidence."

Undress Code: Be Contemporary bra. You’re busy, your day starts at 6 a.m. and finishes late in the evening when the only thing you dream about is to sink into your cosy bed… We’re all the same. That’s why we’ve created lingerie for modern,…

Undress Code: Be Contemporary bra. 

You’re busy, your day starts at 6 a.m. and finishes late in the evening when the only thing you dream about is to sink into your cosy bed… We’re all the same. That’s why we’ve created lingerie for modern, industrious women, that is meant to fit perfectly to your lifestyle. In the Be Brave bra you can rule the world during an active day and then later on show bits of it underneath a transparent tee at the dinner with friends. Even if you fall asleep in it, you don’t need to be bothered with the baleen bones, metal elements or pinching adjusters.

What do you think about the importance of lingerie in a woman's wardrobe? Do you think it is undervalued, not paid enough importance to?

I absolutely think that the power of lingerie is undervalued. Many women still define lingerie as pieces they buy for men, not for themselves. This way, they undervalue their identity, style and everyday comfort, just to strengthen their sexuality. At Undress Code, we believe that sexuality should not be reflected in what we wear. It should be built inside and reflected in women's self-confidence.

"Many women still define lingerie as pieces they buy for men, not for themselves." 

How did you personally find your way to lingerie world?

As cliched as it sounds, as a little girl, I always loved flicking through beautiful fashion magazines and watching fashion shows. However, it was only 10 years ago, when I discovered how fascinating and serious the whole fashion industry is, so it began as a professional dream and path for me. I did a few internships in well-known Polish fashion brands and I gained a lot of experience. 

After those internships, my career changed its direction into consulting and finance. I started studying at Warsaw School of Economics, and then worked in the Management Consulting department at Accenture. I deliberately chose it, because I always knew that brand development is not just about the sense of fashion, but also hard work and business knowledge. However, my interest in fashion won, and after a few years, I took a chance to live in Milano, studying fashion and design management at Bocconi University. The main inspiration for a lingerie brand was my experience of working at a big company, which is associated with a fast pace of life. At that time, I was looking for underwear that would meet my expectations. I didn't find it, so I decided to create it on my own. Two years later, Undress Code was launched.

"We want our products to be a symbol of the modern and entirely fulfilled women."

Undress Code: Be Serious bodysuit. 

Undress Code: Be Serious bodysuit. 

What are the defining, core values of Undress Code?

Undress Code is a daily underwear brand for women that pay tribute to their modern lifestyle and values. We create to make women happier and more confident, we work harder to be able to support them, and these are the drivers and values of our brand. 

Should we definitely wear matching lingerie in hope for some romance? ;)

I absolutely don't believe in always wearing matching lingerie. Even at our photo shoots, we mix our sets to just have fun with it and explore new combinations. It's like clothes or shoes and bags - do we always wear matching ones? 

Shop here:

http://en.undress-code.com

Grind and Glaze — Epitome of Feminine and Masculine

Your next must-know eco fashion brand Grind and Glaze tells a thousand stories of the designer's upbringing in rural Ohio. We took an insight into Tessa Clark's vision connecting masculine 'grind' and feminine 'glaze' in every single responsibly made piece. Their minimal, yet aesthetically impressive debut collection simply makes a sustainable masterpiece, and we can't wait to hear what more the brand has on hold. 

Grind & Glaze Debut Collection, 2016. / Photography: Courtney Sinclair / Model: Cheyenne Janelle

Grind & Glaze Debut Collection, 2016. / Photography: Courtney Sinclair / Model: Cheyenne Janelle

What does Grind and Glaze stand for? What informed the inception of your brand?

Grind and Glaze was originally created for my thesis project as an ode to my parents and my upbringing in rural Ohio. My father is a miller and my mother is a potter. Grind for grain, Glaze for ceramics, a combination of raw and refined elements and aesthetics. I grew up in a creative environment and was a part of their business and entrepreneurial ventures. They inspired me from a young age to be an entrepreneur as well. It was in my blood. 

What are the key sustainability principles you follow?

My goal is to remain ethically grounded while creating garments that are elevated, but inspired by casual-wear. As my brand grows, my goal is to keep all production fair-waged and to remain aware of the working conditions my clothes are being produced in. I also use only organic cotton and other eco-friendly textiles, such as hemp, silk, recycled polyester (made from plastic bottles), and tencel. I also try to use as much of the fabric as possible. For example, I found that one of my designs was creating a lot of fabric waste, so I re-patterned the top and now it doesn't waste as much fabric. The fabric that is left over, I use for my neck-cuff designs. 

Grind & Glaze Debut Collection, 2016. / Photography: Courtney Sinclair / Model: Cheyenne Janelle

Grind & Glaze Debut Collection, 2016. / Photography: Courtney Sinclair / Model: Cheyenne Janelle

What inspired your first collection? Are there any restrictions that make producing ethically difficult?

All of my collections and designs refer back to my original inspiration and grounding aesthetics for Grind and Glaze. Grind: grain, rough, raw, masculine, natural. Glaze: refined, glossy, feminine, minimal. 

My goal with everything I design is that I want it to be timeless, ageless, wearable, and eco-conscious. Right now because my production is so small, it is not difficult to produce ethically. If I keep production in the USA, I will be able to visit the factory, and make sure proper labor laws are being followed. I refuse to sacrifice price for what is morally right. 

"Sustainability and ethical thinking should be at the forefront of everyone’s agenda in the industry."

Why is ethical thinking important for you personally and on a wider global scale?

On a personal level, I find it empowering to be aware of where my clothes come from and to choose where my money is going. Fast fashion was created for corporations to make money by pressuring consumers into thinking they have to have every trendy article of clothing out there. A lot of these garments are made in countries with loose environmental regulations and labor laws, in turn allowing the garments to be produced and sold cheaply. After learning about these processes, I made the decision to make more conscious purchases. Quality over quantity. 

Fashion is a huge industry. And it’s the second pollutant behind oil in the world (ref. The True Cost movie). A lot of what is being produced and sold is harmful to the environment. Sustainability and ethical thinking should be at the forefront of everyone’s agenda in the industry. 

 "I refuse to sacrifice price for what is morally right."

Grind & Glaze Debut Collection, 2016. / Photography: Courtney Sinclair / Model: Cheyenne Janelle

Grind & Glaze Debut Collection, 2016. / Photography: Courtney Sinclair / Model: Cheyenne Janelle

What's your relationship with today's speed culture that encourages us to bombard others with our digital presence, constantly share photos, and forget the actual meaning instantly? Have you ever thought about embracing a slower lifestyle? 

I'm guilty of being sucked into the speed culture, as I'm sure a lot of Instagram and Facebook users are. I’ve been trying to view Instagram as a visual archive for myself and my brand. I follow a lot of fashion and design accounts and screenshot what I find inspirational. I'm trying to view it as an interactive, in-flux moodboard. I've thought about embracing a slower lifestyle and I've tried to create that opportunity for myself by recently moving to Hawai’i. I decided that moving to a big city and working for a corporation was not where I would find my happiness. I very much desire a slower paced lifestyle. I may need my big city fix sometimes, but like all things, it's about balance. 

"I decided that moving to a big city and working for a corporation was not where I would find my happiness. I very much desire a slower paced lifestyle. I may need my big city fix sometimes, but like all things, it's about balance."

Grind & Glaze Debut Collection, 2016. / Photography: Courtney Sinclair / Model: Cheyenne Janelle

Grind & Glaze Debut Collection, 2016. / Photography: Courtney Sinclair / Model: Cheyenne Janelle

Do you feel that today's digital culture has made it harder/easier to reach your audience?

Easier! Social Media platforms are amazing for reaching an audience worldwide! It's free marketing.

What are your plans with Grind and Glaze going forward?

I'm planning my e-commerce presence currently. I’d love to be stocked in more boutiques and my dream is to open my own concept brick and mortar store or workshop, and in some way incorporating education of the industry to aspiring designers and those interested in learning more about fashion, design, and textiles. 

More of Grind and Glaze:

http://www.grindandglaze.com